What are the Haley Hills and why are they so important?
The Haley Hills -- a small mountain range and box canyon -- is located in northwestern Pinal County in the Sonoran Desert of Arizona. While not as large or well known as some of the surrounding ranges such as the Sierra Estrella and the Superstitions, it is still an ecologically significant area of public land managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), a subdivision of the United States Department of Interior. Rural mini-ranches and small farms skirt its outlying fringes to the north, east, and south. The Vekol Wash -- a historically and ecologically significant xeroriparian habitat -- runs along its southern border. The area is about 7 miles southwest from the Ak Chin Indian Reservation, host to Harrah's Casino, and 14 miles southwest of the burgeoning bedroom community of Maricopa. Maricopa is about 30 miles south of the greater metropolitan area of Phoenix. To the west the Haley Hills meets up with the Sonoran Desert National Monument, a protected wilderness area. If it were not for this pure desert wilderness, it might be one of the last "wilderness islands" in an area that is rapidly succumbing to unchecked development and urban sprawl.
We consider ourselves fortunate to live at the foot of these hills. When we first moved here in January of 2000, Maricopa was not incorporated and the nearest grocery store was over 40 miles away. There were no subdivisions, no cable television, and no fast food restaurants. Feed stores outnumbered convenience stores, and public transportation did not exist. We still have to haul our own water, and the only high speed Internet access is by satellite.
In 2003, the town of Maricopa incorporated. Housing developers had a field day. While the boom has busted, new cookie cutter boxes continue to clutter the horizon along with random strip malls and fast food chains. The highway connecting Phoenix to Maricopa that was once used primarily by ranchers and farmers and as a short cut to Interstate 8 for folks on the way to San Diego, is now a crowded commute and a traffic nightmare for all but the crazy speed demons. It is especially disheartening for those of us who moved out here to get away from all that.
This development explosion also triggered an invasion of "city slickers" who view the surrounding wilderness areas as their personal playground. Their recreational area now is our backyard and more importantly, the home for many unique, rare, and threatened plant and animal species, such as the Desert Tortoise, the Pygmy Owl, and Willow Flycatcher.
While the growth in the area initially tripled property values for existing residents, it was not without a price. The rural ranchette area just south of the Haley Hills is called " Hidden Valley." Indeed the hills at night were invisible years ago, cloaked under ink jet-black skies filled with the brightest stars imaginable and punctuated with coyote choruses that could put any wolf pack to shame. Now the northern outline of the hills is always visible with the backdrop of light pollution from neighboring housing developments. We hardly ever hear the coyotes anymore, though they're still around. I suppose that steady encroachment upon one's home is hardly anything to sing about.
During the past few years, we've seen an escalation in illegal ORV (off-road vehicle) tracks disfiguring the desert and a slow diminishing of wildlife sightings. Initially, we didn't think there was anything we could do about it. Then we saw a posting at the feed store announcing a public meeting where one of the topics to be discussed was turning this area into a regional park. That did it. We were fully alarmed and decided to go the meeting.
The meeting was hosted by Pinal County for the purpose of "scoping" and obtaining public commentary on their "Open Spaces and Trails Master Plan." It was very informative and the county officials seemed genuinely open and receptive to comments. Much of the data presented confirmed what we already knew based on our personal observations -- most importantly, that the Haley Hills is an area rich in the highest quality of biological resources, with mammal, bird, and reptile species density in the higher ranges. While the Vekol Wash is dry for the larger part of the year, it runs wet and floods during Monsoon season (July-September) when we receive our heaviest rains. Its borders and islands are lush and densely vegetated year round in striking contrast to the surrounding desert. Walking down the wash is like being in another world. The entire Haley Hills area is a natural refuge for many protected species, such as the Desert Tortoise, Willow Flycatcher, and Pygmy Owl. I’ve sighted Desert Tortoise on four separate occasions – two times near illegal ORV tracks. I also have numerous sightings of Gila Monsters each year. Scientists say that such frequent sightings are rare, leading me to believe that a healthier than normal population flourishes here.
The following species represent just some of the wildlife I’ve had the privilege of identifying by sight, scat, track, and burrow -- many captured on video: Mountain Lion, Bobcat, Coyote, Common Gray Fox, Kit Fox, Javelina, Skunk, Racoon, Jackrabbit, Desert Cottontail Rabbit, Round-Tailed Ground Squirrel, White-Tailed Antelope Squirrel, Kangaroo Rats, Mice, Bats, Sonoran Desert Toad, Diamondback Rattlesnake, Mohave Rattlesnake, Kingsnake, Coachwhip Snake, Gopher Snake, Garter Snake, Gila Monster, Desert Iguana, Zebratail Lizard, Collared Lizard, Desert Spiny Lizard, Long-Tailed Brush Lizard, Turkey Vulture, Northern Harrier Hawk, Sharp-Shinned Hawk, Cooper’s Hawk, Red-Tailed Hawk, Ferruginous Hawk, Great Horned Owl, Elf Owl, Pygmy Owl, Burrowing Owl, Gambel’s Quail, Roadrunner, Crow, Gila Woodpecker, Curve-Billed Thrasher, Phainopepla, Vieros, Warblers, Tanagers, Flycatchers, Cactus Wren, House Wren, Sparrows, Gilded Flicker, Hooded Oriole, Cardinals, Towhees, Cowbirds, Yellow-Headed Blackbird, Finches, Dove, Jays, Hummingbirds, etc. Countless varieties of insects, spiders, butterflies, and moths also grace our area. We are treated to the most unique array of plant varieties found nowhere else but the Sonoran Desert such as the Giant Saguaro Cactus. Palo Verde, Mesquite , and Ironwood trees are a special delight. Ocotillo, Teddy-Bear Cholla, Barrel Cactus, Prickly-Pear, and Pin-Cushion Cactus are prolific. In the fall, Desert Broom Brush launches millions of silky white flowers that cover the ground like snow. One very early morning I caught a glimpse of the mysterious, elusive Desert Night-Blooming Cereus – a rare event I am told. Desert Wildflowers that bloom in the spring are especially plentiful after a wet winter. We live in a sea of Creosote bushes – one of the most ancient plants with many uses. I could go on and on, but you get the picture. It’s a desert paradise warranting a designation of natural open space with restricted usage – nonmotorized and nonfunctional -- by government officials.
Our particular comments regarding the Pinal County Open Spaces and Trails Master Plan were formalized in a letter posted below. The extensive damage wrought by the ORVs which is continuing to accrue were previously published on the old site and distributed to officials and concerned parties.
After inquiring about the ORV issue, I learned that all BLM land in Arizona is classified as “limited use” – meaning that all motorized vehicles must stay on existing roads. There are no “existing roads” in the Haley Hills except for a one lane resource road previously used by a rancher who leased the parcel, and it’s not even on the current BLM inventory listing. At any rate, the ORVs only use it for gaining access to the area for illegal off-roading. So I called the Sheriff’s office to find out exactly who was responsible for enforcing these laws. Out came Deputy Puroll on Sunday, January 14, 2007 – the officer in charge of search and rescue and all the back roads in Pinal County. He was angry and disheartened by what he saw, and promised us he would try to step up enforcement in the area. In the meantime, he encouraged us to get Arizona Game & Fish and the BLM out here to post signs. Troy Christensen with Arizona Game & Fish came out on February 8, 2007 and put up some preliminary signs at critical locations to serve as deterrents. He also repaired a fence that had been torn down in all likelihood by ORVs and/or smugglers so they could avoid traveling on legitimate roads. Kevin Harper, the BLM area manager contacted me and said he would be sending one of his rangers out to get some more signs up. It wasn’t long until it was evident that the signs that AZ Game & Fish put up were being ignored, and the fence that Troy Christensen repaired was torn down again. On March 3rd, a vehicle was abandoned on our property. The Sheriff’s deputy who came out to investigate said it was the 10th abandoned vehicle reported in the area during the recent month. It looked like the vehicle was used by smugglers. Several gallons of water were found in the back and a machete was tucked underneath the seat with some Mexican soft porn. The VIN number was scratched off the side of the door and the interior lights disconnected. On March 10th, Dan Urquidez, AZ Game & Fish Wildlife Manager for this region, came out to visit and to check on some recent reports of mountain lion sightings. Again, he repaired the fence that had been torn down for the second time. We were also informed about an increase in smuggling activity on BLM land. A BLM ranger contacted me twice by e-mail to tell me that she was coming out to put up signs, but she has not done so yet. Many of our neighbors have expressed a concern not only for the damage to the environment done by the ORVs, but for the safety of the children who make up the majority of the riders. Per our observations, the ORV riders using this area are not mature and responsible “OHV recreational enthusiasts” that you might encounter elsewhere. They are mostly kids, teenagers, and young adults who have no regard for the law or the environment. Most of them are under the age of 18 and do not wear helmets. They tend to drive too fast on the roads and into the washes where natural and unnatural hazards abound.
The alarming escalation of environmental damage due to illegal ORV activity and smuggling in the BLM Haley Hills area required that we ask the BLM to close off the area to motorized vehicle use in the interim in order to prevent further unnecessary and undue degradation of the land while restoration efforts and other planning is underway. My blog and these web pages were dedicated to recording and tracking these issues.
A series of reports were issued on bimonthly basis over a period of approximately one year and distributed to critical parties in the BLM, Arizona Game & Fish, Pinal County, and various other agencies and conservation groups, documenting the abuse, recovery efforts, and my observations in general. These reports were called "The Haley Hills Reports" and were published in full on the previous version of this website and my blog. To find out what happened and be brought up to date with current events regarding this issue, please see my FINAL UPDATE page. Thanks!
Public Commentary regarding the Pinal County Open Space and Trails Master Plan
[this letter has been partially edited to protect privacy]
November 6, 2006
Via Certified Mail and Hand Delivery
Jennifer Moore
Logan Simpson Design, Inc. [THIS IS THE PRIVATE CONTRACTOR HIRED BY PINAL COUNTY]
51 W. 3rd Street, Suite 450
Tempe, AZ 85281
Kent Taylor, Senior Planner
Pinal County Planning & Development
PO Box 2973
Florence, AZ 85232
Re: Pinal County Open Space and Trails Master Plan
Dear Ms. Moore and Mr. Taylor:
Thank you for your excellent presentation at the November 1st public meeting in Maricopa and for the opportunity to provide input to this process. We were pleased and encouraged to learn that Pinal County wants to protect our open spaces. Per your request, these are our comments.
We are particularly concerned about the proper classification of the open space in Hidden Valley known as the Haley Hills quadrant on the USGS map and the BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land in Township 5 South, Range 2 East, Sections 29, 28, 32, and 33. This area should be designated as natural open space and preserved as wilderness with restricted use for a number of strategically important reasons.
Your preliminary maps indicate that this is an area of the highest quality of biological resources with mammal, bird, and reptile species density in the higher ranges. Desert Tortoise habitat is slotted in category two – the middle range, however this would probably change to the highest category with updated research. Since moving here seven years ago, I have become intimately familiar with this land spending 1-4 hours practically everyday hiking and filming wildlife out there. I’ve sighted Desert Tortoise on three separate occasions, one which I recently captured on film. I’ve also sighted Gila Monster on numerous occasions. Scientists say that such frequent sightings are rare, leading me to believe that a healthier than normal population exists in this area.
An additional designation on one of your maps marks this area as “strategic prime ranchland at risk.” Since most of this land is currently under BLM jurisdiction, it is primarily absent of any privately owned ranches, however particular parcels have been leased on occasion for seasonal cattle grazing. When we first moved here, we saw a few cattle roaming during the fall and winter months. For the last two years however, there have been no cattle or signs of cattle anywhere. I recently checked with the BLM regional office in Phoenix and currently there are no active leases on these lands or plans to lease them. Pursuant to one BLM report, no grazing will be allowed after 2008 in the Vekol Valley in order to protect suitable Pygmy Owl habitat.[1]
We moved from Mesa, Arizona in order to get away from city sprawl and to cultivate a rural lifestyle more compatible with our interests. It is heartbreaking to see the same thing happening out here that happened to the East Valley in the late 1980s – uncontrolled development with no regard for open space, existing wildlife, and the natural environment. A new, more insidious wave of intrusion upon what little open space remains has come with this development – namely recreational thrill seekers on off-road vehicles (otherwise known as motorcycles, dune buggies, ATVs, ORVs, and OHVs) which are having a negative impact on this pristine wilderness.
The Haley Hills area is a box canyon bordered on the south by the Vekol Wash – an ephemeral but prominent waterway providing a rich xeroriparian habitat, and on the west by an approximate two mile buffer zone with the Sonoran Desert National Monument. Its diverse and prolific wildlife and plant species, including a strong population of thriving Saguaros, can probably be credited to its unique topography and relative isolation. After moving here, hardly an evening would go by when we would not be visited by a pack of coyotes. Now we are lucky to hear them once a month. We can’t help but think that this is due to increasing human encroachment on their territories. They still use the Vekol Wash and its major tributaries, however, because I film their tracks regularly.
Back then there were hardly any ORV tracks present on the BLM land with the exception of the access road. Tracks now disfigure much of the landscape. (Photos are enclosed.) Evidently at one time the Arizona Fish and Game in conjunction with the BLM made this area off limits to ORVs per the signs posted, but these signs are being ignored and the rules and regulations not enforced. The disfiguring tracks, smoke, dust, noise pollution, and trash left behind by the off-road vehicle users continues to be a major annoyance for all those who moved out here for the quiet solitude and natural beauty of the Sonoran Desert wilderness. We feel it is contributing significantly to the decline of the wildlife in the area and poses a major threat to the already endangered Desert Tortoise as it has elsewhere.
As you know, areas like this that border the Sonoran Desert National Monument should be included in the category of protected natural open space because of their strategic significance as a buffer zone/transition area for maintaining wildlife corridors and ecological health. The Vekol Wash is a rich xeroriparian habitat that is prone to extensive flooding during Monsoon season. We should probably call it the “Vekol River” as I caught it raging as such on film! (See photos enclosed). Each rain sets off an explosion of wildlife and plant proliferation which I often document with video. Our last major rainfall in mid-September brought on an invasion of Steodata Albomaculata – an intriguing spider whose webs looking like liquid diamonds in the sunlight, blanketed the valley connecting almost every single creosote bush in a sea of spiders. You could not walk anywhere out there between bushes without running into one! It was an extraordinary natural phenomenon.
I found it curious that none of your preliminary maps designate the Vekol Wash as a significant historical and cultural area for historic preservation. A U.S. Department of the Interior BLM 2003 Annual Report says it “is believed to have been an important prehistoric travel and trade corridor between the Hohokam and tribes located in what is now Mexico.”[2] I was told that the word “Vekol” means “thunder” in the language of the Tohono O’odham tribe and “grandfather” in Hebrew. At any rate, hiking the Vekol Wash is like being in another world – a lush, humid forest most of the year in striking contrast to what most of us experience here. I’ve witnessed the blooming of some exotic looking plants in the dense vegetation of its islands that I’ve never seen anywhere else.
The Haley Hills BLM area should be in the running for official wilderness status for several reasons. Like the Superstition Wilderness, it is an area of great beauty that should be preserved for its uniqueness and the protection of critical species and habitat. Any trails should be restricted for the enjoyment of hikers and horseback riders. I can show you two such rugged trails that have been there for several years. These trails go through washes and up steep hillsides to the ridges and are therefore inappropriate for ORV use. One such trail is 4 miles long and was made by an elderly couple – former winter visitors who lived down the road. They even constructed a little bench at the midway point of the trail (see photo enclosed.) That action is actually too much development for this kind of wilderness, but you can see how the natural beauty might attract those who would want to put up a resort on the edge of the area or a parking lot at the beginning of the access road. None of us wants to see that or the construction of anything that might obstruct our views of these hills and threaten the sanctity of the wildlife and pristine ecosystem. It’s been our biggest secret, but alas, because it is at risk, we can keep it secret no longer. Please do not be content with these photos -- come see for yourself. The most breathtaking vistas are seen from the top of the hills and the ridges – especially at sunrise and sunset.
While I’ve documented bobcat tracks, some residents have reported mountain lion sightings in recent years – two just this past spring. One was first sighted by some residents in far west Hidden Valley (Section 32 specifically) and later sighted north of Thunderbird Farms (Section 28.) Following that line indicates it was probably using the Vekol Wash for cover in its migratory route like the coyotes. I’ve got hours of film documenting a diverse array of burrows and animal tracks, including those of the elusive Javelina. I’ve identified several foxes in the area by sight, scat, and track. We have several “Prairie Dog” colonies that are loads of fun to watch. Technically, their correct name is “Round-tailed Ground Squirrel,” but I’m told that calling them Prairie Dogs is not completely inaccurate because of the closeness in relation -- they’re just a bit smaller. At almost any given moment we can look out our window and watch their dramas unfold, along with the interesting antics of Desert Cottontail Rabbit, White-Tailed Antelope Squirrel, Quail, Dove, Roadrunner, Gila Woodpecker, Cactus Wren, Zebra Tail Lizard, Desert Iguana, and a host of other critters. In the winter we are blessed with frequent sightings of Red Tail Hawk (a breeding pair this last spring), Ferruginous Hawk, and other raptors. I’ve found three abandoned nests on the neighboring hill in the past year. Several species of snakes, lizards, and owls also make this area their home. When the rains begin, we see countless Desert Toads -- Bufo Retiformis – (another threatened species) awakening and emerging from their long underground slumber.
In spite of this apparent abundance in wildlife, our sightings have declined in recent years, which we feel is in direct response to the burgeoning development in Maricopa and increase in off-road vehicle activity. Not one week goes by when I don’t bring home some of their unsightly litter from one of my hikes – mostly beer cans and used shot gun shells. This has got to stop. We are glad that Pinal County has specific plans for a dedicated space to meet the needs of recreational enthusiasts of off-road vehicles because they do not belong in these critical areas of pristine desert wilderness. While I am an amateur naturalist and wildlife filmmaker, I feel that a reassessment of the strategic importance of this area by your conservation scientists would confirm my experience and personal observations. If there is anything we can do to expedite this process, please let us know.
In conclusion and in accordance with one of your initial evaluations, the Haley Hills BLM lands and surrounding areas in Hidden Valley in far northwestern Pinal County have significant biological resources both in Sonoran Desert vegetation and wildlife habitat. This land provides a critical wildlife connection to the Sonoran Desert National Monument through the surrounding BLM areas and the Vekol Wash – a riparian habitat that is rich beyond measure. This land is a natural refuge for many protected species and offers many scenic vistas, foothills terrain, natural washes, and fascinating bajadas. The few rugged foot trails in this beautiful desert wilderness will continue to offer many unique hiking and wildlife observation opportunities for local residents and tourists alike as long as it is protected as natural open space with restricted usage, off limits to off-road vehicles. We residents of Hidden Valley are exceptionally fortunate to have this area in our backyard. Because it is so close to the rapidly growing city of Maricopa and sprawling residential development, it is imperative that Pinal County in conjunction with the Pinal County Open Space and Trails Master Plan stakeholders take a proactive stance with regard to its protection and proclaim it as natural open space with restricted usage – nonmotorized and nonfunctional, hopefully paving the way to the official wilderness status it so naturally and completely deserves.
Thank you for your time and consideration in this matter. Please keep us apprised of continuing developments in this process and opportunities for further input. If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, please feel free to contact us.
Sincerely,
Judy Kennedy
Enclosures
cc: David Snider
Supervisor, District 3
Pinal County Board of Supervisors
PO Box 827
Florence , AZ 85232
1 United States Department of the Interior U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Memorandum to Field Manager, Phoenix Field Office from Field Supervisor dated February 1, 2002 re: Livestock Grazing on the South Vekol Allotment, Maricopa and Pinal counties, Arizona.
2 United States Department of the Interior Bureau of Land Management 2003 Annual Report: Shared Community Stewardship for America ’s Public Lands (01/16/2004), p. 122, also in the Sonoran Desert National Monument Proclamation.